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Chapter 6. Museo Nacional de Antropologia


The time we were at the canals would have been much better spent at the Anthropological Museum. "It's difficult to absorb everything in a single day without brain strain" ... and muscle fatigue, if I may add. Unfortunately, we could devote only Sunday morning to the museum.

Museum Horror Mexico has plenty of beautiful artifacts, but, being a realistic country, Mexicans dont assume that people will be automatically drawn to them; so they put some effort into getting an audience for their history and culture. They build a beautiful building to put their stuff in. They put the building in the sprawling greenery of the Bosque de Chapultepec park. They have a large courtyard in the middle of the museum for people to lounge about in. You might not in the least bit be interested in archaeology, but if you're curious about architecture, you'll be fascinated by the portico-like structure that, anchored only at a single central colummn, shades the courtyard. The thing is not easy to build: the portico cant be too light, for its large surface catches a lot of wind, and it might simply fly off; but if it's too heavy, it would just crush the column and collapse.

You might not know what anthropology is all about, so the first gallery is devoted to explaining something about the subject, particularly the basics of the pre-history of the Ameicas. It had always intrigued me that native Americans' faces resembled that of Chinese - now I knew the answer: groups of Mongoloids had trekked across Asia and entered the Americas by means of the Bering Strait (the limb of Alaska that seems to be trying, in vain, to touch Russia) when it was still a frozen ice-bridge, and populated the "New" World.

Two floors of galleries surround the courtyard - each gallery covering a distinct part of Mexico. By now, you might have actually developed some curiosity in the history of the land, so there is some prefatory text to each section. Unfortunately, all the text is in Spanish; however, with a rudimentary knowledge of the language, coupled with that of one or more other European languages, you could guess your way through. Additionally, you could rent an audioguide. Fascinated by the history, you might be curious to know how people in those parts live today: just climb a flight of stairs to the corresponding Ethnology section above. (This bit is LP paraphrased - we skipped the upper galleries.) At some point of time, the history becomes too much to absorb, but the art is so good, that you have to lurch through all the halls, even with aching calves, just not to miss something really beautiful.

It seemed to be the high season of school projects in Mexico - groups consisting of schoolkids (or mother and kid, in the case of young student and/or mollycoddling mom) were faithfully taking notes. I wonder, though, if some over-zealous Education Minister isnt behind all this - I saw kids leaving the museum getting their books stamped by a guard: proof of visit to be presented to the teacher?

The lunch buffet at the museum restaurant was decent - the only irritant being that not only do you have to pay for the lunch in advance, the cashier even asks for the tip before you've sat down at the table.

Next Chapter: Bull... Mexico City Travel Guide


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Re shoeshines, what you say about DF is true, but to see the real shoeshine boys, go to a pueblo where you put your foot up on a planter box, or car bumper, or orange crate, or any other "object" that is handy in the zocalo, and get a great shine including washed shoe laces, or in the case of runners, a real good wash job. Prices depend on competition, ex: if five kids are availeable the price is a lot less than if one kid is alone in the zocalo.

Randy     Thu, 12 Jun 2008 15:19:42 -0400
i think it is wrong making bulls fight for money why cant people find something better with their time and money i think theses people have got more money than sense if they are spending so much money on bull fighting

Jodi-Ann     Tue, 6 Mar 2007 11:13:01 -0500
Okay.. you could limit the info a little.I'm in SpanishI and need something a little easier to use as a research project info site... Its all about understanding the material!!!!!! N E way thanx for the info!!!! You did have that!!!

Laura     Tue, 24 Oct 2006 12:36:24 -0400
hola cómo eres, odio este sitio debido a toda la información falsa, yo pienso ese realmente ***** srry, bien yo odio sí este sooo mucho

chocolate caliente     Thu, 25 May 2006 10:03:17 -0400
Hi I Want To Now How Big is el Zocalo Aand the history of the Mexican flag.

Daniela     Sat, 4 Feb 2006 12:30:57 -0500
Hello would like to know if there are paintings of frida Kahlo in the museum nacional, doing a reaserch on her for my university. Any info will be great Gianna @ kingston university, london, U.K

gianna carriero     Thu, 26 Jan 2006 11:49:42 -0500
I would like to know who was the architecture of El Zocalo. Thank You.

Evelia Leal     Mon, 5 Dec 2005 14:24:35 -0500
juste pour une question:Pourquoi la place de la constitution à Mexico porte-t-elle aussi le nom de Zocalo?

Dchidjo faustin     Tue, 26 Jul 2005 13:41:40 -0400
Enjoyable and helpful (i.e. taxi booth inside having same price, canals not being worth it, etc.). I hope you consider visiting the Northern colonial towns someday; they're wonderful, too. I especially love Guanajuato, Queretaro, Morelia and Patzcuaro - each different and each special.

Jane     Sun, 19 Jun 2005 19:46:45 -0400
Great report. I very much enjoyed reading it. Too bad about the idiot who littered up this site! Still thank you very much for you efforts and advice

Sandy     Thu, 9 Jun 2005 07:51:08 -0400
this was a wonderful way to study for my final. thank you.

laura     Sat, 4 Jun 2005 20:56:53 -0400
Do you agree that this is probably one of the world's most vibrant hearts of a big city, and than not only when there are earthquakes......When I read the text above , I read it in your words, but did you feel it, too? I hope you did..because this is really a special place! the only thing I miss in your text is the rythmic drums that are not always visible, but their slow, faster, though consistent rythms are always, always, there.

Robert     Wed, 4 May 2005 05:47:02 -0400
this was a really great reoport of the city thanks!!!!!!!!!!

lauren middleton     Thu, 17 Mar 2005 17:36:09 -0500
im doing a project on mexico, what about the rituals the indians have? thats important and people INCLUDING ME wanna no about it...

(sorry i had to fix a few mistakes i submitted before)

Anonymous     Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:18:03 -0500


Hi! I just wanted to say that your journal helped me a ton on my spanish class presentation! You should write a novel about this!

Anonymous     Thu, 3 Mar 2005 13:22:17 -0500
i think it is a great place and i hope it stays kewl. kewl

pedro sanchez     Thu, 24 Feb 2005 14:41:21 -0500
Zocalo is to Mexico as Main St is to USA, i.e. you'll find one in every Mexican city. Mexico City residents started calling their central square Zocalo, "meaning base, when a statue of the Spanish monarch Carlos IV was removed after independence, leaving only the pedestal. The name has been adopted informally by many other Mexican cities for their main plaza." (Lonely Planet Mexico, 2004)

Shayok Mukhopadhyay     Sun, 9 Jan 2005 19:49:35 -0500
do any of you kno where i can find a good source of information on the history of the Zocalo?

Anonymous     Sun, 9 Jan 2005 15:15:09 -0500
Zocalo is the center of town in Santo Domingo. It is surrounded by the National Palace, a Cathedral, shops, buildings, and a park. There is a lot of history in the Zocalo Square, including a temple and a mexican mueseum. Also, Zocalo is known for the flag at the center of the square.

em     Sun, 9 Jan 2005 13:37:10 -0500
this is way rad!!!

carmon blake     Tue, 14 Dec 2004 14:22:47 -0500
Im serious against bullfights and i hope that the people whó loves it will burn in hell for ever. How will they feel when i will kill them with my weapons?!!! I dont understand the fun of it. The animals are againstles and they are born to suffer and lose!!!! It has to stop!!!! Why dont we have humanfighting??? That will be fear to me....

Greets, M. from the netherlands

mirrin from holland     Sat, 11 Dec 2004 09:37:39 -0500


sorry, my email is martin_man64@hotmail.com, so please if anyone has a picture of the spear used in portuguese bullfights, if they could send it to me. gracias

martin Ferreria     Wed, 17 Nov 2004 12:55:59 -0500
hey, i was looking for a picture of a portuguese 'pica', the spear that the bullfighting on the horse uses. If u have any, it would be greatlt appreciated if u could send it to. I've been looking for one for a tattoo, so a picture of the spear alone would be most desired. thank you

Martin Ferreria     Wed, 17 Nov 2004 12:53:32 -0500
Go ahead, pontificate! but limit yourself to 3000 characters (no html).

Hi, I am coming to mexico to the yukatan pen. to see Talume and chichen Itsa I wish to plan a stop over in Mx. City to go through the Museum. Is there not One fairly new (over the last 5yrs) that holds extensive artifacts from the sites. I remember reading about it but I am not clear on which one it is...

Will It be open Dec 26th? I am planning to have our stop over 25-27 Dec.

Thanks for any info you may give

Thanks, Todd

todd     Fri, 29 Oct 2004 20:35:26 -0400


you have no idea what mexico is. you only say bullshits about my country, soldiers who looks like they will do something to you, come on! all green bettles robbing everybody, you most be kidding.. please before you write stupidities, be sure to know what you are talking about.........you copycats!

1 mexican pissed off!     Mon, 11 Oct 2004 21:28:56 -0400
this was a helpful site....i had to do a mexico project and needed info.....

Anonymous     Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:52:30 -0400
You have a wonderful & entertaining website! Thanks & Kind Greetings from Osoyooys, B.C., Okanagan real estate.

Osoyoos B.C.     Tue, 4 Nov 2003 01:00:00 -0500
Greetings and Good day!! Very Well written by You and at the Least Entertaining! Thanks & Best Wishes, Kelowna - B.C. - Canada.

Kelowna     Mon, 27 Oct 2003 01:00:00 -0500
While it is true that the Aztecs found a series of huge lakes, they did not drain parts of them; the Spaniards did after the conquest and started farming in the rich boggy soil. The chinampas and the canal network of Xochimilco were widespread and in existence before the arrival of the Spanish and were not a consequence of their mismanagement. The chinampas are the remnants of a remarkable and unique agricultural system that has managed to produce for the needs of the great city through the centuries.

Rodrigo Hernandez     Tue, 23 Apr 2002 01:00:00 -0400
I went to Mexico City in 1975, and among the places I visited was the Museo Nacional de Anthropologia. On the page that mentioned it, I was let down because you did not mention some of the "very famous" artifacts that are located there such as the original "Aztec Calendar" which is known worldwide and a "replica of Moctezuma's headdress (or crown)" which is also very famous as well as very beautiful. I am glad that you have mentioned ways of taking care of one's self by avoiding hailing taxis from the street. I would also like to add, that one should be very careful when employing the locals for shoe shines when there may be other older groups of boys around (especially those with baseball bats or other possible weapons.)

Ron Guilfoyle     Sun, 1 Oct 2000 01:00:00 -0400
I really enjoyed your Mexico City travelogue. I'll be in Mexico later this year, so I'm busy researching my holiday.

www.KelvinBaggs.com

Kelvin Baggs     Sun, 17 Sep 2000 01:00:00 -0400


I really enjoy the way you write and the details included in your stories. However, the article regarding the bullfight had several points that are incorrect (my boyfriend is a "torero" or matador of Mexico). 1) Bulls are colorblind, they are charging what is moving and/or what is catching their eye. 2)

Jen     Tue, 25 Jan 2000 01:00:00 -0500
We lived in Mexico for 8 1/2 years - 6 in Toluca and 2 or so in Xochimilco. Reading through your travelogue brought smiles to both our faces. Of course, we lived there doing our regular occupations, but we both felt that your perceptions were accurate and most amusing. Good job! For us, Xochimilco was a good place to live, just outside the wonderful madness of Mexico City, and the trolley ride from Taxquena was wonderful decompression.

--Paul and Phyllis Harris

Paul R. Harris     Mon, 31 May 1999 01:00:00 -0400


You layout is an outright copy of Philip Greenspun's. I'm not sure if he mind it but I would certainly not encourge you to do this. Have your own style!

Wee Keng Hor     Sun, 31 Jan 1999 01:00:00 -0500
This is the author's response to the previous comment: I'm not sure if this is the right forum for discussing it - nevertheless: I aim for originality in content (ie text and photographs), not html gymnastics; I'm sure Greenspun would be happy that his efforts to convince publishers to present surfers with a minimalistic user-interface are bearing fruit.

Shayok Mukhopadhyay     Sun, 31 Jan 1999 00:00:00 -0500